On the Road Again

On the Road Again

Tuesday, May 1, 2018

Ancient Civilizations, Battlefields, and the Blues

Day 23
If I wasn’t retired I would have gone back to school today.  

We started our day touring the nearby Poverty Point Plantation, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
This photo explains the site better than I can:


Like other Indian settlements, there are a number of “Indian mounds” that distinguish the area and were recognized as such in the mid 19thcentury.  However it wasn’t until the 1940’s when aerial photography became commonly used that a series of six concentric semi-circles were discovered that were located at the eastern edge of the largest mound.  Incredible artifacts, 8000 spear heads for examples, were found here and demonstrated that these people traded and traveled with other peoples since there are no rocks like these anywhere nearby.  Estimates of the population go as high as 4,000 inhabitants.   The largest mound was constructed by the natives, one basket at a time, each filled with 50 lbs. of earth.  The 72 foot tall mound required 15.5 million baskets to construct, yet there is no clear purpose to these mounds, and there is no evidence that these were burial mounds.

The darker grass in the gap on the trees on the left shows one of the rings.  They weren't that tall which is why they were never noticed on the plantation.

The name for this site is taken from the plantation that was located on this property in the 1800’s, and they believe the plantation was named after Poverty Point bend on the Mississippi.

From Poverty Point, we returned to the Vicksburg National Battlefield Park.  Listening to a CD audio tour we spent the next three hours exploring the park which is where the Confederates finally surrendered to Grant after a 47 day siege that included vicious daily battles. Vicksburg is located on a high bluff overlooking the Mississippi to the west, and therefore control of the city gave you control of the river.  The Union forces tried to take the city from the east, but because of the extremely hilly topography, the defense of the city was very easy for the Confederates.  Trench warfare was employed by the Union army as a way to provide some degree of protection as they attempted to move up the steep hills, but they were continually turned back by the Confederates.  Eventually the Confederates ran out of food and ammunition, so they surrendered, but rather than be imprisoned, the Rebel soldiers were allowed to go home.  Many think that was a gesture of respect from Grant who previous to this battle always demanded unconditional surrender.




The remains of the Cairo, sunk during the Civil War and not found until 1960.

 20,000 casualties for the combined armies.  

Before we left Vicksburg, we had a late lunch of fried chicken, corn, black-eyed peas late 19thcentury inn.  Practically all buildings in Vicksburg were destroyed by cannon fire during the siege, so the oldest buildings post date the war.


Our final destination for today was the T.O. Fuller State Park Campground, just outside Memphis. Most of today’s drive, over 340 miles was through the Mississippi  Delta which is very flat, very dusty, and very poor.  


Along the way we drove through the city of Clarksdale, immortalized by  Blues Legend Robert Johnson’s classic “Crossroads”.   I couldn’t resist this photo of the crossroads which is now well marked, nor could I resist getting some take out barbecue from Abe’s roadside stand at the junction.



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